Jim Coleman | Whole-wheat pasta, flavorful and healthy
Reprinted from the Philadelphia Daily News website philly.com
Q: I have been told for health reasons to move away from plain flour and
eat things made of whole wheat. I'd like to know more about whole-wheat pasta.
Do you cook it any differently than regular pasta? Are some whole-wheat pastas
better than others? I would really appreciate it if you could send me some
easy recipes using whole-wheat pasta. Thanks.
- Trudy W.
A: Trudy, we must hang out with the same crowd, since I have also been steered
down the whole-wheat path for health reasons.
The good news is that whole-wheat pasta works really well in a lot of recipes,
and in many cases I like it even better than regular pasta. Whole-wheat pasta,
like all whole-wheat products, is not as processed as the kind made with
white flour. Because of that it contains much more of the natural nutrition
found in the grain.
Also, the harder the grain, the further it travels down our little tummies
(OK, in my case it's a big tummy), and the carbs don't have as much time
to turn into sugar. All of this is on the plus side of the health ledger.
You've probably heard some people say they don't like whole-wheat pasta because
it has a strong flavor. True, but these are probably the same people who
tell you they don't like salmon because it has a fishy flavor. Guess what,
sports fans: It's fish. And with whole-wheat pasta, you get the more intense
flavor of - wheat. Since whole-wheat pasta has a stronger flavor, you know
what we're going to do? (Drum roll, please.) We're going to use it with more
robustly flavored sauces. I know, it's a stroke of genius.
As to your other questions, I don't have a favorite brand of whole-wheat
pasta among the many brands on the market these days.
I hope you will try a lot of different ones and let me know which you like
best. And I'm not trying to be funny when I tell you the best way to cook
whole-wheat pasta is according to package directions. Sometimes the simple
answer really is the right one. Just make sure you use a large enough pot
with lots of water. On the whole (no pun intended), whole-wheat pasta takes
a little longer to cook.
By the way, for recipes that require a milder sauce treatment,
I have found a traditional "durum semolina" pasta (not whole-wheat)
that not only tastes good, it has a 65 percent lower glycemic index than
regular pasta and only 5 grams of digestible carbs per serving (all of which
I have to watch in my diet).
It's sold under the brand name Dreamfields, and I think most
stores carry it. I am sharing a couple of
recipes that will work for whole-wheat or regular pasta that you could serve
to any crowd. I'll bet the people who told you they don't like whole-wheat
pasta will ask for seconds. *
Chef
Jim Coleman, corporate chef at Normandy Farm and Blue Bell Country Club,
is the author of three cookbooks and is the host of two nationally syndicated
cooking shows.
Whole-Wheat Linguini with Walnut Spinach Pesto, Tomatoes & Red
Onions
2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 cloves garlic, sliced lengthwise
1 small red onion, cut in half, thinly sliced
2 medium tomatoes, diced
8 ounces whole-wheat linguini
3/4 cup spinach pesto (recipe to follow)
Salt and fresh ground black pepper
Heat the oil in a small skillet over medium-high heat and saute the
garlic and red onion for 2 minutes. Add tomato and cook for one more
minute.
Cook the pasta according to package directions. Drain it, reserving
a half-cup of the water, then toss pasta with the tomato mixture.
Divide the pesto among 4 warm pasta bowls or deep plates. Add the
pasta and 2 tablespoons of the reserved pasta water to each bowl.
Toss to combine, adding more of the water if needed to coat the pasta
with the sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serves 4.
Spinach Pesto
1/2 cup walnuts
2 cups coarsely chopped, flat-leaf spinach leaves
8 large basil leaves, torn in pieces
1 medium clove garlic, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon soft tofu
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
In a food processor, whirl the nuts until finely chopped, 30 seconds. Add the spinach, basil and garlic.
Whirl until they are finely chopped, 15 seconds. Add the tofu and cheese. Pulse 3 or 4 times, just to
blend. With the motor running, drizzle in the oil. Season the pesto to taste with salt and pepper.
Makes 4 servings for linguini recipe above.
Penne with Puttanesca Sauce
1/4 cup olive oil
1 cup finely chopped onion
6 cloves minced garlic
2 (28-ounce) cans Roma plum tomatoes, broken into pieces, with juice
1 cup tightly packed, pitted and halved Kalamata olives
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 tablespoons drained capers
2 tablespoons minced anchovy fillets (about 8 fillets)
1/2 teaspoon dried crushed basil
1/2 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper flakes
Salt to taste
1 pound penne pasta, cooked al dente
In a large pot, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion and saute until soft and lightly
caramelized, about 6 minutes. Add the garlic and cook an additional 2 minutes.
Add the tomatoes and the remaining ingredients except the pasta and simmer until the sauce is thickened
and slightly reduced, about 40 minutes. Adjust seasoning to taste.
Add cooked penne pasta to the pan and toss for 1 minute. Serves 6.
Ragu Alla Bolognese
1 slice prosciutto, 1/4-inch thick, cubed
1 sprig fresh parsley
1 medium-sized onion, quartered
1 rib celery, cut into 4 pieces
1 medium-sized carrot, peeled and cut into 4 pieces
1/2 cup sundried tomatoes
1 cup artichoke hearts
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 pound mixed boneless beef, veal and pork,
chopped together
2 fresh sage leaves, or ¼ teaspoon dried
Salt and fresh ground pepper
1/4 cup dry wine, preferably red
2 cups chicken broth, preferably homemade
3 tablespoons tomato paste
1/4 cup heavy cream (optional)
In a food processor, combine the prosciutto, parsley, onion, celery, carrot, sundried tomatoes and artichoke
hearts.
Process until the mixture is finely chopped.
In a 4-quart saucepan, heat the oil and butter over medium heat. Add the prosciutto-vegetable mixture
and cook, stirring, until lightly browned, about 8-10 minutes. Stir in the meat and sage and cook, stirring
frequently, until brown. Season with salt, if used, and the pepper. Add the wine and let evaporate.
Blend the broth into the tomato paste and stir into meat. Cover and simmer over low heat, stirring occasionally,
about 1 hour.
Add the cream, if used, stir and remove from heat.
This recipe dresses one pound of pasta.